Retinoids are a group of cell-signaling molecules, derived from Vitamin A - Specific retinoids directly control proliferation of sebaceous glands and sebum production. In addition to its anti-aging properties, retinoids (particularly retinol and retinoic acid) used on skin have been shown to be effective in the treatment of acne by:
- Diminishing sebum production
- May reduce the number of open and closed comedones (black heads and white heads).
Reduction of acne after Retinoid use
- E.g. Accutane (isotretinoin) - is a powerful anti-acne, retinoid drug. Accutane molecules bind to specialized receptors on the surface of sebocyte cells causing them to slow down their growth and sebum production.Note that Accutane is categorized as a category X drug, meaning it is 100% guaranteed to cause birth defects if used by a pregnant woman. Also the FDA reported that Accutane is associated with depression, aggression and even suicide. The makers of Accutane removed it from the US market in 2009 after paying millions of dollars in lawsuit damages.However, isotretinoin is still produced and available under numerous names by a wide range of generic pharmaceutical companies (E.g. as Amnesteem, Isotane, Sotret, Oratane and Roaccutane).
Estrogens (female sex hormones) - estrogens usually antagonize (i.e. suppress) the effects of androgen hormones. This relationship partially explains why acne symptoms tend to change over the course of a woman's menstrual cycles, or during /after pregnancy. Men produce very few estrogen hormones. Estrogens may also directly affect sebaceous gland activity.
